Patience for a Sunset

Saturday 13 January

I walked in-between two of the mothers of my concession through our fruit tree filled village, up a rocky path surrounded by barely green bushes only slightly taller than us, across a barren black burned field down a hill into a tiny village of about 5 huts. And there I sat in silence for 3 hours upon a chair, the only one sitting on a chair. Everyone else gathered leaves or straw or found prayer mats to sit upon on the ground. There was no one to explain the ceremony we were attending. The men, the French speakers were all gathered over there.

I sat and watched with a patience that never found comfort in the wooden chair. A singing parade of people carrying wood upon their heads dumped it all in a pile. Money was collected. Women gave 100 GF. Because I didn’t know what the ceremony was for, I pretended I didn’t have any money in my bag. I didn’t want to be giving money to some ceremony I might not agree with. Everyone just sat listening, listen to what? No idea. We couldn’t even hear what any of the men were saying, probably something from the Koran. Not knowing when the ceremony was going to end, I glanced at my watch, almost 17 h, hour of prayer. Maybe this silent sitting will end by then. My ass is beginning to numb.

We were on our way home by 18 h. That was the best part of the day. No not because we were finally going home, but because it was beautiful. The full round sun was setting amongst beautiful dark shades of barren ground dotted by brightly clothed women making their way home single-file.

I rarely, okay never get to see Guinea during dusk. I am always inside. My source of light, candles. It was a rare treat to watch the trees go dark, the grand mosque blacken against the sky.

We reached home barely able to see. The moon doesn’t come out these nights. It was there where the husband explained that the ceremony was a religious one giving two women the title Therino, for their devotion and dedication to Allah, striving to lead a sinless life, devoted to reading and interpreting the Koran. It was much better than the theories I came up with like a circumcision ceremony.